A sprinkling of pearls in a sea of ethereal blue, the 115-island archipelago of the Seychelles is one of the world’s most idyllic beach destinations. One of the best tropical vacation spots, is down in the West Indian Ocean some 1,800km (1,118 miles) from Africa’s east coast and only 4 degrees south of the equator, these once-isolated tropical isles have become synonymous with castaway island luxury. Only 16 islands currently have accommodations, but a big part of the Seychelles appeal is hopping from one stunning stretch of sand to another, snorkeling, diving, sailing, and soaking up the shimmering, sun splashed atmosphere along the way.

The pristine beauty of these islands belies their fragility, and the Seychelles government is taking the high road in sustainable tourism—as in demanding small-scale, environmentally responsible development. What that means for the consumer are luxury, uncrowded accommodations,supremely personalized service,and correspondingly high rates. Fourteen islands are already protected marine reserves—in fact, 45% of this island nation is fully protected conservation land and nature reserves. Good thing, because these are the oldest living oceanic islands on earth, with 80 endemic species of flora and 2,000 endemic species of invertebrates.

The Seychelles are divided into two island clusters: the raised granite Inner Islands and the low-lying coral cays and atolls of the Outer Islands. Of the Inner Island group, Mahé is the nation’s largest island and the entry point for people flying into the Seychelles and the transportation hub for excursions to other islands in the archipelago, whether you go by air, ferry, or private or tour boat. It’s also the site of the country’s capital, Victoria. Mahe is the most populated island in the nation, by far: 90% of Seychelles citizens live on Mahe, some 72,000 people. Which goes to show how under populated these islands really are: The Seychelles has the smallest population of any nation in Africa.

Mahe may be the country’s financial, cultural, and social heart, but in the tradition of its sister islands it also has fabulous beaches, including the secluded Port Launay and Beau Vallon, a popular beach lined with lodgings and restaurants. But if you’ve just arrived and are itching to find a remote and uninhabited desert island, head to the Sainte-Anne Marine Park, a sea-and-sand sanctuary ringing six beautiful little islands: Sainte-Anne, Moyenne, Longue, Cerf, Round, and Cachèe. It’s a fabulous place to snorkel and noodle about in sparkling-clear seas, with thousands of colorful fish under your flippers. You can arrange full- and half-day trips with the Marine Charter Association 248-22-46-79).

The two other main islands of the Seychelles are Praslin and La Digue. In Praslin, the UNESCO World Heritage Site the Vallée de Mai 248-32-17-35; www. sif.sc) is a remnant of a prehistoric palm forest that some believe is the original Garden of Eden. It’s a richly bio diverse ecosystem, home to 6,000 Coco de Mer palms, these trees can live up to 400 years and produce the world’s largest seed. The forest is also the last refuge of the endangered black parrot, the national bird of Seychelles.

Praslin may be the most touristed island in the archipelago; a number of excursions to neighboring islands leave from here. Some travelers think that La Digue is the most beautiful island in the Seychelles, and there are countless magazine covers to prove it. The island has a leisurely, old-world pace and some of the nation’s most stunning beaches, including Anse Source d’Argent, a white-sand beauty studded with large granite boulders.

Bird Island, the northernmost island in the archipelago, is aptly named—from May to September, millions of sooty terns arrive here to nest. But it could just as well have been called Tortoise Island, for the giant land tortoises that make their home here. Bird Island is an eco-tourist’s dream: Only 7% of the island is used for development, but the island’s one 24-bungalow lodge lets you experience the wild island habitat in laid-back luxury. On North Island, an 11-chalet luxury ecotourism lodge is run by one of the world’s most respected outfitters, Wilderness Safaris (www.wilderness-safaris.com), which is truly going wild here: working to return the island habitats to their native state, weeding out invasive species, and reintroducing indigenous species. The entire island of Cousin (p. 135) is a nature sanctuary where some 250,000 birds nest. Of the Outer Islands, only two have accommodations: Alphonse and Descroches.
Each of these islands has one luxury lodge, lovely beaches, and opportunities for fly-fishing and diving. But for some, the Outer Island of St. François is the Seychelles’ most beautiful tropical isle, a palm-fringed reef surrounded by sand flats that offer superb bonefishing. A must-see in the Outer Islands is the country’s secondWorld Heritage Site, the Aldabra Atoll, the largest raised coral atoll in the world; at its center is a massive lagoon with a vibrant marine environment. Aldabra is the home of the world’s largest population of giant land tortoises: Some 150,000 tortoises—the largest of which grows to nearly 360kg—live and thrive on this truly idyllic spot.
_ www.seychelles.travel or www.sif.sc.
Seychelles International Airport (on Air Seychelles; www.airseychelles.com). Air Seychelles
and Helicopter Seychelles (www.helicopterseychelles.com) provide charter flights to/
from most of the Inner and Outer islands. KHigh-speed catamaran Cat Cocos (www.catcocos.com) operates round-trips between Mahe and Praslin (45 min.).
Clef de les Ilets, Beau Vallon, Mahe Island (www.clefdesiles.com) North Island Seychelles, North Island (& 248/29-31-00; www.north-island.com).