Overshadowed by vibrant Ho Chi Minh City in the south and politically dominant Hanoi in the north, visiting Central Vietnam has an appeal all of its own. The legacy of the ancient Cham people makes itself felt in the Hindu-influenced architecture, while the climate is neither as sultry as the south’s nor as chilly (during winter) as the north’s.
But central Vietnam is much more than a zone of transition. It’s the home of imperial Vietnamese culture, and the base for some appealing accommodation.
That doesn’t mean you’ll be deprived of more traditional tourist treats. There are beautiful beaches aplenty, including the famous golden sands of Da Nang, Cua Lo and Non Nuoc. If you want to relax on a sun lounger with a cocktail and a good book, you’ll find the perfect package on offer.
However, we were hunting something else. After catching the overnight sleeper from Hanoi, we were determined to get in touch with Vietnam’s pre-colonial past, in the city that served as the country’s capital until 1945 – imperial Hue.
That’s why we were intrigued to learn of a resort that had grown from the vision of a local man, determined to resurrect the crafts of the region and create an up-to-date version of the region’s traditional luxury.
I’d heard a lot about Pilgrimage Village and checked out the photos online. But as the taxi carried our party of three along a meandering country road and through a nondescript village, I was starting to wonder whether we were in the right place.
We had arrived. Pilgrimage Village is a resort with an atmosphere quite unlike the in-your-face opulence of so many modern resorts. It’s artistic, sophisticated and luxurious in the most unexpected ways.
The Resort’s village-style layout makes for a landscape of low rise buildings in a garden studded with palms and jackfruit trees, many of which grew spontaneously from pips discarded by the previous generation of locals.
A lotus-filled waterway bisects the property, with the cool modern lines of the Slope Bar on the far side the ideal venue for a happy hour drink while an excellent pianist serenades you with excerpts from the classics. The main restaurant, Junrei, is located near the front of the property, alongside the reception pavilion. Like the pavilion, it’s built from local materials using wood hand-carved with scenes relating to the imperial Vietnamese court that once presided in nearby Hue city.
It all seems quite timeless but 25 years ago none of this existed. A local entrepreneur, working for the only hotel in Hue at the time, had the vision of creating opportunities for the region’s craftspeople while giving foreign visitors a taste of the real Vietnam. He designed and built an artisans’ showroom in a nearby village to promote the handicrafts of the region.
Visitors loved the ambiance and asked if there was anywhere they could stay. So he built the first stage of the Pilgrimage Village Hotel, and then gradually developed the adjoining site until he had created a 99-room property complete with spa, restaurants and all the facilities of a boutique resort.
5 things you must try in Central Vietnam
Dine
Hue’s cuisine draws on the refined traditions of the Vietnamese court. Try ‘Shrimp with Five Tastes’, which lives up to its name with a single plump prawn in a delicate consommé flavored with kaffir lime leaf, lemongrass, chilli, ginger and shallot. And make sure you try the region’s specialty – Com Hen, a spicy clam and rice concoction.
Enjoy the History
The imperial citadel is unique – a walled, forbidden city in the heart of Hue, where the Emperor reigned in the midst of his officials and concubines. Parts are in ruins but enough remains to remind the visitor of what once stood proudly here.
Admire
My Son is a cluster of abandoned Hindu temples built between the 4th and 14th Centuries by the kings of Champa. Building techniques and architectural motifs can still be seen in the region’s modern buildings – a reminder that this part of Vietnam was long influenced by Indian as well as Chinese and indigenous traditions.
Relax
You want beaches? Central Vietnam has some glorious ones. China Beach in Da Nang, where GIs stormed ashore in the 1960s, is the most famous one. But there are plenty more.
Stay
Chill out in a hideaway resort. The tranquil atmosphere is the perfect contrast to the buzz and bustle of urban Vietnam.